Flooring: Refinishing Wood
Floors
 | Whether you've had wood floors for a long time or just discovered them under old carpeting, you've probably considered refinishing them.
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| Waxing and/or buffing often provide a good shine, but refinishing the floor is usually the only way to regain the original richness and beauty of the wood.
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| Refinishing is hard work and some people opt to hire a professional. But most of the necessary equipment is available at rental centers and the steps are pretty straightforward. |
For definitions of terms used throughout this project see
Flooring Glossary.
| Refinishing a wood floor is a great way to increase the value of your
living space. Sometimes, a floor with shallow scratches or a dull surface only
needs a top coat of finish.
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| Other times, refinishing isn't enough and whole boards need to be
replaced. If the floor feels spongy, sags, or if floor boards are
buckled/warped, then consider replacing them.
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| If scratches or dings are in the wood, refinishing is the next step.
However, a wood floor can only be refinished so many times because each
sanding takes off more wood. Check at floor edges or around a heat register to
see how much wood remains. |
NOTE:
Maple
floors are difficult to sand and stain well. Consider hiring a professional to refinish them.
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| There really isn't a definitive procedure for filling cracks and gaps in hardwood floors although there are some guidelines. Since variations in
temperature and humidity cause the wood to expand and contract, small gaps and cracks do serve a purpose.
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| Winter months tend to be drier making cracks and gaps more visible. In summer, humidity rises,
causing some cracks to virtually disappear. Large cracks in the summer however, only lead to bigger cracks in the winter.
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| We went ahead and filled in the gaps at the ends of the floor planks because wood doesn't expand very much lengthwise. Which cracks to fill are really up to you. Just make sure to fill them before you sand.
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Refinishing a hardwood floor requires some specific items that can be found at
your local hardware and rental centers.
| drum sander
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| floor edger
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| buffer
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| orbital/ palm sander
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| putty knife and scraper
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| shop vacuum
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| ear protection, dust masks, safety goggles
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| lamb's wool and natural bristle brush, or foam applicators, tack cloths
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- Remove everything that isn't nailed down and sweep the floor
thoroughly. Use diagonal pliers to pull out any left over carpet staples and use a hammer &
nailset to sink any exposed nails that may damage the abrasives or
sanding machines.
- Leave the baseboards unless you plan to replace them. If so,
use a shim behind the pry bar to avoid damaging the walls.
- To avoid spreading dust throughout the house hang
plastic over the room's doorways and put
rags or towels under doors and over vents.
- Lastly, walk over the whole floor and seek out any squeaks, cracks, or other repairs that should be done before sanding.
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Sanding hardwood floors is a very dusty, noisy job. You'll want to wear a dust mask and eye and ear protection. Also ask for instructions/demonstration on how to operate rented equipment.
First, use a drum sander fit with a course paper (20 to 36 grit). Begin in a low visibility area like under a sofa. Start the sander with the drum off the floor and slowly lower it onto the
wood.
The drum sander seems like an unruly piece of equipment and scares off some people from refinishing their own wood floor. Besides being big and loud, the drum sander can gouge the floor. It takes some getting used to, but with a little practice, you can do it as long as you're careful.
Simultaneously, walk the sander forward, sanding with the grain of the wood -- unless floors are badly warped. In that case, first sand diagonally to the wood grain.
Sand from wall to wall on one half to two-thirds of the room, making both a forward and a
backward pass of each row.
CAUTION: Never let the sander sit in one spot. It can make a gouge or swirl mark in
just seconds.
Where the drum sander can't reach -- such as wall edges, corners -- use an
edge sander. Tip the edger back and slowly lower it to the floor. Use a left to right semicircular motion to feather out the sanding.
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| After the rough sanding, change to a medium (50-60) grit. Go
over the entire floor the same way. After this pass check again for cracks/holes using matching wood putty to fill them in. Also look for nailheads. Countersink these
"shiners" and fill them in.
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| For the final sanding, use a fine (80-100 grit) abrasive and finish with a
palm sander
around the perimeter to feather sanding areas.
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| Vacuum the room thoroughly, including the walls and ceiling. Avoid using a damp rag because moisture will raise the grain of the exposed wood.
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| A rented buffer can take a little getting used to. At first it feels like it's pulling you all over, but after a few minutes it's pretty easy to handle. We made sure to start in the middle of the room until we felt comfortable and completely in control of the machine.
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| Buff the floor (going with the grain) using a fine abrasive screen (100-120 grit) to help tighten the wood grain before
staining.
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Staining and finishing are the culminating steps that begin to show all the wood's character. But remember to handle these products with caution.
Work in a ventilated area because many products produce harmful vapors. Be aware that solvent-based chemicals are
flammable so extinguish cigarettes, pilot lights and other open flames in the area.
Oil-based stains are popular because they are easy to use and look nice. Oil-based stains are reliable, available in a variety of colors, and are -- at least for the time being -- the better choice for stains.
Water-based stains are still in their beginning stages of development and some people have had unsatisfying results. But lately, water-based stains have been improving and gaining in popularity.
Whichever type of stain chosen, always follow the directions, note the drying times and test the stain on a hidden area or scrap piece before applying to the whole floor.
| Staining an entire floor goes faster with
two people (Where's Dean?): one applying stain, the other wiping away the
excess. Using a rag, apply the stain cutting in from the corners and working with the wood grain. Wipe off any excess and change rags often.
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| Excess moisture can raise the grain of the wood and cause footmarks
to show through the finish. Let the stain dry out overnight and avoid walking on the floor.
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| There are two basic types of finishes:
surface and penetrating/wax. Penetrating finishes were popular, but now surface finishes are good do-it-yourself choices. They're water resistant, provide a durable top coating, and are easy to maintain.
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| Generally, surface finishes are either
oil-modified urethane (often referred as polyurethane)
or water-based urethane.
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| Water-based finishes have rapidly improved in quality. They're less toxic, dry faster (2 to 3 coats can be applied in one day), are clearer, more durable, an environmentally-friendly choice, and clean-up with soap and water.
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| Oil-modified urethane is commonly used but cures out slowly. However, oil-modified urethane is thicker and usually takes 2-3 coats for a good finish. Water based urethane is thinner and takes 3+ coats.
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CAUTION:
Do not try to renew a urethane finish by
applying wax. This makes it impossible to renew the floor except by sanding. Remember, wax and urethane don't mix.
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| Use a high quality natural bristle brush or foam applicator to cut in along the edges and corners. Avoid
drips and thick overlaps of finish.
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| Start at the farthest point from the doorway and apply an even coat. While the finish is still wet, blend in any brush marks with a lamb's wool or foam
applicator.
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| Work with the wood grain
in 5' wide sections down the width of the room. Let the finish dry for 24 hours unless using the quicker drying water-based urethane.
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TIP: We found a
watering can useful in spreading the finish. Wrap a piece of straining cloth around the spout and fasten it with a rubber band to keep gunk out of the finish.
| We had a lot of luck using foam applicators. They were easy to use and properly weighted although slightly more expensive than the more popular lamb's wool applicators.
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| With either type it is important to rinse it out well (with water or mineral spirits, depending on the type of finish) to get rid of any loose fibers that could end up in the finish coat
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| The first finish coat may
raise the grain of the wood a little. At this point, it's necessary to sand or buff the floor before applying the
last finish coat.
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| Drag a damp cloth across the floor to pick up all the dust. Apply the final coat just like the previous coats. Stay off the finish and avoid stirring up any dust while the finish cures.
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Preventive maintenance is the key to a beautiful, long-lasting wood floor. Dust and debris tracked over a floor can scratch and dull its finish.
Placing door mats or throw rugs at all the entrances will help keep dust to a minimum. Use
fabric-faced glides on furniture legs to
prevent scratching the floor and clean them occasionally.
Clean floors at least once a week with a
vacuum or dust mop. Do not, however, use dusting products because they can dull the finish.
For routine clean-ups, use a damp mop on
floors with a polyurethane or similar surface finish. Wax-finished floors should
never be cleaned with
water, not even a damp mop.
For bigger clean-up jobs, follow the
manufacturer's directions. Otherwise, use a solution of 1/4
cup white vinegar in 4 cups of warm water.
| Use a damp rag or sponge and wipe the floor dry as
you go. Oil soaps or ammonia products should not be used because they can damage and dull surface
finishes.
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Baseboard
Boards placed against the bottom of walls. Conceals the joint between
walls and floors and gives a finished appearance.
Base Shoe
Molding used to finish off the bottom edge of baseboard. Used to hide
irregular floor and wall joints.
Blind Nail
Driving a nail into the tongue side of tongue and groove wood flooring
which is then hidden by the next flooring piece.
Border Tiles
Tiles that lie along the perimeter of a room.
Countersink
To drive a nail or screw below the surface.
Drum Sander
A specialized floor sander (about the size of a walk-behind lawn mower)
pushed along the floor's open areas.
Edge Sander
A hand-held power sander that reaches close to the wall to get the area
missed by drum sanding.
Filler
Wood putty/dough filler is used to patch holes and pores to create a
smooth, consistent surface. These fillers are available in various colors to
match different types of wood.
Flat Finish
A non-reflective finish.
Floor Joists
Parallel, floor framing members that support the subfloor, underlayment
and flooring. Joists are supported by larger beams, girders or bearing walls.
Glossy Finish
Highly reflective finish that looks wet and is slick to the touch.
Grain
Growth patterns of wood. Wood grain produces different surface textures
and patterns in the flooring.
Jamb Saw
A flat saw used to cut door jambs and casing at the floor. Handy for
matching height to accommodate new flooring. Also known as Gent's saw.
Kraft Paper
A heavy, thick paper used to make floor layout patterns. Sometimes used as
flooring underlayment. Also known as Rosin paper.
Laminate
Thin layers of wood or plastic veneer that are glued to an inner core.
Latex
Water-based paint or finish. Generally non-toxic and easy to clean up.
Mastic
Catch-all term that refers to the glue or adhesive material typically used
for gluing flooring or tile to an underlayment or subfloor surface.
Pilot Hole
A pre-drilled hole that makes it possible to drive a screw or nail without
splitting the wood.
Plywood
A piece of wood made of three or more layers of veneer wood bonded with
glue. For strength, the middle layer is usually placed so the grain runs
perpendicular to the layers above and below it.
Polyethylene Film
Large plastic sheets (usually 4-6 mil thickness) that act as a vapor
barrier against excessive moisture that may penetrate and ruin flooring and
sub floor layers.
Quarter Round
A small-sized molding that has the profile of a quarter circle. Frequently
used as base molding.
Resilient Flooring
A general term for vinyl and linoleum flooring.
Satin
A soft-sheen finish.
Selvage Edge
The manufactured "excess" edge of sheet vinyl; cut to match pieces.
Sleepers
Staggered, flat lying lumber (like 2x4s) commonly used to make a firm,
even subfloor base on concrete.
Subfloor
The first layer of plywood or planks laid over the floor joists.
Template
A pattern that represents the floor's surface, usually made of kraft
paper, used to cut out sheet vinyl. Pronounced "tem-plit."
Top Coat
The final coat of finish applied on wood flooring.
Underlayment
Any material placed over the sub-floor to provide a smooth, stable surface
for the finish material. Commonly plywood, particleboard, or foam pad.
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For More How To
Information:
Many of the steps described in this "Refinishing
Wood Floors" page are explained more fully with our step-by-step, instructional videotape on Wood
Flooring. You can read a short description of the tape and find out how to order it by linking to its section
in the Hometime Store.
©1998 Hometime Video Publishing, Inc.
http://www.hometime.com/
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